on travel / wanderlust

on travel DFWMy older brother is hopping around Europe, taking breaks from his Italian studies to frequent junkyards for car parts and snowboard in the French Alps under the shadow of Mount Blanc (1). My younger brother is hopping across Australia, playing with kangaroos, koalas, eating vegemite, and learning some rad slang like “sunnies” instead of “sunglasses” (2). My father, a pilot, keeps bicycles in Paris, Barcelona, London, and other international cities so that he can cruise around on his layovers. At the moment, he is in who-knows-what-province of Thailand for the nation’s new year celebrations—an epic water fight called “Songkran.” A cousin of mine also traveled through Thailand recently, while his brother filmed a documentary for VICE on HBO in the Philippines and North Korea, among other places (3).

Wanderlust runs in my family; we may or may not have gypsy blood. And while everyone else travels around the globe, I’m still stationary, thinking about where I’ve been and where I’m going.

on travel SF

My life looks pretty settled lately—working two jobs seven days a week, stashing some cash, carving out time to work on handmade journals, photography, and writing. Deep down, I know that all too familiar & metaphorical itching in (not on) my feet can only be cured by hopping on an airplane to a nation where I know no one, and no one knows me. Travel changes you, but I’m realizing that it’s time to change the way I travel—instead of traveling alone, venture forth with others; instead of running away from one place, run towards the next.

My days in India, Tibet, and Thailand feel decades behind me now, and I find myself walking over the cobblestone and brick of my hometown, wondering if I should find a hermitage in the woods and stay put instead. Then, I strike up a conversation with a woman from Cambodia who left in 1981, watch an episode of VICE that completely shatters my reality, and read about the fatal landslide in Tibet, 40 miles from where I lived in Lhasa (4). It makes me realize how much I’ve seen and experienced, but more importantly: how much I don’t know, and how much remains to be seen.

1. http://jakeitalia.tumblr.com/
2. http://wannagotothelanddownunder.tumblr.com/
3. http://hbo.vice.com/
4. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/03/world/asia/deadly-tibetan-landslide-draws-attention-to-mining.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

de cleyre & co : now on etsy!

 

It gives me great pleasure to announce the grand opening of my etsy shop, de cleyre & co! Now you can browse my collection of handmade sketchbooks, notebooks, & journals, and even purchase one of your own. If you’d like a customized sketchbook, you can purchase a mini one here or contact me at decleyreandco@gmail.com.

etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/decleyreandco

fb: https://www.facebook.com/decleyreandco

de cleyre & co : stay tuned

minisketchesSince my return from (a brief stint in) California last week, I’ve been holed up in the studio, working on handmade journals/notebooks/sketchbooks. I’m happy to report that I’ve made twenty-nine, of various shapes and sizes, since January 1st. I absolutely love making them, even when it feels monotonous and slightly painstaking, and the positive response I’m receiving from friends and family has been fantastic. That said, I have some exciting news on the horizon, so stay tuned, and check out/like my page, de cleyre & co, for updates and more info – https://www.facebook.com/decleyreandco

 

from now on / resolutions: week five

As the calendar turned another month, I revisited my original intentions for the new year. So far, I’ve done better than anticipated in my resolve to cultivate a disciplined and sustained art practice—my bedroom/studio wall is literally covered with charcoal figure drawings, my watercolor pieces are starting to look less like finger paintings and more like something you’d see in the hallway of a hospital, the 35mm/365 project is unfolding nicely, and I’ve finished sixteen handmade notebooks/journals/sketchbooks—eleven ahead of schedule.

Although things are going well, there was a rough patch. Working two part-time jobs, attending a drawing workshop and a painting class, running a one-woman mini-factory of handmade notebooks, carving out time for photography, and trying to have a social life took its toll. I came down with a cold, a product of my self-inflicted tendency towards overwork and spreading myself too thin.

It made me realize that, although I’ve been disciplined and highly productive with my art, the rate at which I’m working is obviously not sustainable. It made me recall a memory from when I was a child, where my mother tucked me under a blanket and explained that I had to choose which activities I really, really wanted to do, because I couldn’t do them all. I was stretching myself too thin, and twenty years later, I’m still trying to learn where the balance lies.

Yet despite being conscious of what I’m doing, I know I’m going to keep spreading myself thin—just hopefully not too thin. You see, it’s how I operate. Inhabiting various mediums—painting, drawing, writing, photography—can be advantageous, in that they inform one another. Sometimes when I’m painting I get an idea for a story, or a photo series, or vice versa. And feeling like a beginner in watercolors helps me appreciate my experience and background in drawing and 35mm photography. I learn where my strengths and weaknesses lie, where the discomfort is.IMG_0108

But most importantly, the reason why I have to do all of it and more, is that they teach me differently. When I paint and draw, I’m taught to think less, to look and feel more. With each print that comes back from the lab, I’m taught the art of patience, that there is a lot worth waiting for. The handmade journals teach me to slow down, to take things step by step, to embrace the imperfections in the covers and the spine. They allow me to slow down enough to look at the places unfolding beneath my hands.

from now on / resolutions

1/1/2012Let me make one thing absolutely clear: I don’t make resolutions. Each year, as everyone yells numbers in receding order, their eyes glued to the television screen and the sparkly ball dropping over Times Square in New York City, I fight back urges to roll my eyes and huff “whatever.” Yeah, I’m that lady. I’m an NYE-Scrooge. My recurring resolution, which I have on hand whenever someone asks, is “to not make any resolutions.” There you have it. In your face. My resolution trumps your resolution because I’m too perfect (read: cynical and lazy and plagued by self-doubt) to make any resolutions.

What a difference a year makes. At the beginning of 2012, I lost my job, briefly moved back home to New Hampshire, and then fled to India with a British guy I had known for six months. It was a string of strange, life-altering decisions. I quickly realized that moving to India was a dream and not a reality, and moved back home for good.

At first, I returned with my tail between my legs, plagued with the overwhelming thought that I had failed. I spent the rest of the year putting the pieces of my life back together in a way that made sense for me. I excavated the past in an effort to understand the present, set my sights on the future, and explored what it was that I truly wanted—not what my family wanted for me, or what my friends wanted for me, or what society wanted for me, but what I truly wanted, for me. I needed to refocus my life, excavate my past, prioritize my present, plan, and execute.

Here’s the plan:

1. Take Art Seriously: Cultivate a Disciplined & Sustained Practice

ink mapWhen I was nine, my third grade teacher called home to complain that I had been drawing all over my textbooks. My mother’s response was to enroll me in acrylic painting courses with a local folk artist, and I’ve been painting/drawing/creating since. But the past few years I focused most, if not all, of my attention on travel. Now that I’m semi-settled back home in New England, I’m ready to commit to a disciplined and sustained practice. I’ve enrolled in four courses at local studios and galleries this winter to study figure drawing, watercolors, oil painting, woodblock printing, and to reacquaint myself with acrylics. On top of this, I’m going to be creating handmade journals using outdated aviation maps, selling 35mm prints, researching galleries and spaces to exhibit in, and engaging in a 365 project. I’ve always complained that I never have enough time/space/energy for art. I’m done making excuses. It’s time to dive in.

2. 35mm / 365

cloudy dayThe premise is simple. One 35mm photo a day, for three hundred and sixty-five days.

I’ve always loved film photography. At ten years old, I owned my first camera. It was a Polaroid iZone, a rectangular-shaped-contraption that captured images on a sticky film that looked like oversized BandAids. A box of film was pricey. My mother said, “only take pictures of things that are important.” I said, “everything is important.”

I resisted digital for years because I loved the look and feel of film, then caved because it felt inevitable. Now, with the demise of Kodak and the disappearance of certain Polaroid films, coinciding with the emergence of The Impossible Project and the ironic rise of Instagram and other Apps that make digital photos look old and weathered, I’ve decided to shoot solely 35mm film. It may be dying, but it’s not dead, and I’ll shoot until it is.

You can check out my daily posts here - http://evdecleyre.tumblr.com

3. Create fifty-two handmade journals this year / one each week

handmadejournalsLast year, on Christmas, my father handed us gifts wrapped in outdated aviation maps. I honestly can’t recall what he gave me (sorry Dad), because I was too enthralled with these maps. Now, one year later, major airlines are giving pilots iPads for aviation manuals and maps, and these babies are basically extinct.

Anyone who knows me knows that I love maps. I have a map of the world tattooed on my forearms. I could sit and stare at maps for hours. I’ve been sitting on these aviation maps for a year and finally figured out a proper use for them. In high school, I learned how to bind books using a coptic stitch. This year, I’m going to create one handmade journal/sketchbook a week, using aviation maps for covers and an exposed coptic stitch for the binding.

However, I doubt I could fill fifty-two journals in one year, so if you’re interested in ordering one of the fifty-two, (e)mail me at e.v.de.cleyre@gmail.com, subject line: handmade journals.

4. Effectively End Self-Proclaimed Hibernation: Bring Back the Phone

woodsIn June, I erased the contents of my iPhone and gave it to a friend. “You won’t last a week,” my brother said. It’s been six months.

The reports of horrendous worker conditions in Foxconn factories and the idea that everything I did could be tracked and monitored were two in a plethora of reasons for forgoing a phone. I was spending a lot more time flipping through Instagram feeds than I was taking photographs, texting more than having actual conversations, and always connected but never connecting. I needed a break, a hiatus where I could truly hibernate, alone, without the ping of an incoming text message echoing through this empty house.

I needed to know that I didn’t need an iPhone—for directions, for communication, for connection. In the six months that I spent without, I had more meaningful connections and face-to-face conversations because I wasn’t staring into a screen every second I spent alone. I asked people questions instead of searching for answers on Google. I paid closer attention to directions, to where I was going, to where I had been. I did math in my head, kept a real life address book that I wrote in with a real live pencil, and listened to music on vinyl—sitting still and actually listening rather than shuffling through songs, searching for lyrics, or texting someone about how awesome it was. I sent handwritten letters (and emails) composed in full sentences with proper grammar, spelling, and punctuation. I even wrote a book.

At the root of my iPhone Banishment Project was the knowledge that I needed to truly hibernate, to take leave of the world. I needed to be absolutely alone, and when I had an iPhone, I reached for it the second someone left the room, just to do something, anything with it—to occupy my mind and my attention. I needed to learn to revel in being alone, to savor the moments I had to myself, moments that could be spent in observation and creation, moments that brought something or someone new into my life, something I never expected to happen or someone I never expected to meet. I needed to stop connecting with people who weren’t actually there and start being wherever I actually, physically was. And I needed to keep these moments to myself. I needed to stop putting my life on display for the world to view, to witness, to judge. Every tweet, every Facebook post, and every Instagram image were thoughts and moments I needed to keep to myself, for once. I needed to cultivate that voice that doesn’t hinge or depend on a social media platform and the people who may or may not view it and/or like it.

Now, I’m bringing the Phone back, mindfully. Now that I know I don’t need it, I can re-integrate it without it consuming me, taking over my life. There will be boundaries. It won’t live in my back pocket like it did for years. I won’t install Twitter, or Facebook, or even access my email on it. I will take photos. I won’t Instagram. I will answer incoming calls (much to my mother’s delight). Above all else, I will take the time to step back and actually look at life without a screen, or a lens.

Now that I’ve shared mine, tell me what endeavors you’ve resolved to accomplish in 2013!
Here’s hoping that we can all answer this prompt next year (wordpress daily prompt).

nanowrimo: the bittersweet, not quite end

desk:type

Nine hundred and fifty-six words left, I thought when I awoke this morning, excited about the prospect of finishing the first draft of my novel. That same sense of enthusiasm accompanied me every day of the first week of NaNoWriMo, but had quickly waned. I became bored with my story, with my narrator, with the setting and the characters, but now that excitement was back and better than ever.

NANOWinner-120x240I thought that nine hundred and fifty-six words would fly by in two hours, but it took a few more than that, mainly because the impending end was so close I told myself I could afford a bit of internet procrastination (1, 2, 3, 4, 5). Hours later, I clicked the word count to see 50,328 words, and my arms shot up in the air, at which point I realized that I probably should’ve showered this morning. Yes, my first thought—after “I did it!”—was that I needed a shower, but then I realized that sitting in my pajamas at the kitchen table seemed a fitting way to end a month of intensive writing.

And yet this is far from the end, the end. Over the course of the month I wrote countless tangents that will meet the cutting room floor, yet came closer to the book I’ve always wanted to write with every word I typed. Still, there is so much more to say, and whether it will all make it into one book is doubtful. I’m lucky enough to have a bounty of stories, but with that box of ideas in my brain comes overwhelming doubts—are my stories any good? Am I just writing the same solipsistic shit?

Who knows? And who cares? Okay, okay, I honestly do, but the thing is, I can’t not write. So if you need me, I’ll be sitting in my pajamas at the kitchen table, writing.

nanowrimo day two: word vomit

It is incredibly freeing to word vomit all over a computerized document for 50,000 words in thirty days. “Freeing” was one of the last adjectives I would have thought I’d use to describe NaNoWriMo—National Novel Writing Month—but the initial feeling of trepidation has subsided, restraints have been lifted, expectations eradicated. Getting everything out of my head and into a first draft is cathartic, regardless of how good or bad the writing can be. Truth is, I’ve started and stopped multiple manuscripts before this, only to get caught up trying to rewrite the passages I’ve already written, never moving forward or reaching the finish line.

And what am I writing, you ask? A largely autobiographical piece, excavating and fictionalizing the last year of my life, which brought me from Tibet to New York to India. During that time period, I left Tibet knowing I might never go back, did two things I swore I’d never (signed a lease on an apartment and accepted a salaried position), semi-settled in Brooklyn, fell (hard) into a long-distance relationship, lost said salaried position, and moved to India for a British guy—a move that lasted a mere seventeen days.

The year was marked by a series of failures. At least, that’s what I originally thought, but in excavating I’m aiming to reassign the failures, find the inherent wisdom, figure out exactly what happened and why in order to better understand the significance of it all and ultimately move forward.

If I end up with a 50,000 word draft that could be reworked into a piece of literature, then that’s fantastic. But if I end up with pages upon pages of catharsis and word vomit, that’s alright with me too. As long as I learn something in the process it will be worthwhile, which is something I have to continually remind myself of each time the prospect of a blank page overwhelms me.

If you’re taking part in this year’s NaNoWriMo, or have participated in the past, please comment or get in touch with me. I’d love to hear from you! Whether you’re participating or not, you may track my progress at: http://www.nanowrimo.org/en/participants/e-v-de-cleyre

from up above

15 september 2011, thursday

The land below us was brown, the mountains looked like creases in balled-up sheets that lay at the edge of a lover’s bed, perfectly unkempt. The further west we flew, the more white-capped peaks presented themselves to us. The plane passed over Yosemite; the mountains rose up together and plateaued. In the center they shot suddenly downwards, leaving a gaping hole. I felt small the one day I spent there. The stark contrast between San Francisco’s skyscrapers and Yosemite’s towering rock faces had me in awe. Deer leisurely strolled over to us. There was the constant sound of water from falls and streams.

Trees cloaked the delicately rolling mountainsides and receded from the peaks, leaving them bare. Then the mountains themselves receded and the land laid flat, painted with green and tan squares, framed by crooked lines reaching off to the horizon. Water appeared. The land browned and folded upwards again. A sea of white rolled over the sky, gently, concealing what laid beneath. We were close.

sketches from a village in ladakh

5 July 2010. Day 2 in Likir

Yesterday was a blur. After two hours drive, and another two spent leisurely walking around Likir, I arrived at my home stay, where Ama-le invited me in for lunch. I was famished, as it was near two and I had only eaten handfuls of nuts and dried apricots all day. I sat on a wooden platform just barely higher than the dirt floor, and Amale brought me a plate of eggs and khambir, the local bread. I hadn’t eaten eggs in fifteen months, but I wouldn’t—couldn’t—tell her that, and proceeded to eat, while she had kholak—barley flower and butter tea.

The house is still under construction. During the day, Indian boys mix mud to line the inside walls, so the house is covered in dirt. The hallways and rooms hold small dirt piles, and in the meantime everyone lives around them. When the boys leave, the house is dusted and cleaned back near its normal state.

Ama-le says “skyot-le” and I follow her outside near the fields, where we sit down and begin collecting rocks into a bag, the reason for which I’m not sure, but I enjoy it. It brings me back to my favorite pastime—rock and seashell hunting on the beach.

When I finally admit that I need water, we go back inside. We clean the shrine room, taking everything out onto the balcony and dusting. I dust the thangka paintings and photographs of lamas with the utmost care, afraid of ruining a precious family heirloom. When Abi-le appeared, I tagged along with her to clean and shine the butter lamp holders by the stream in the cold glacier water.

When I met my Ama-le and introduced myself, what followed was a butchering of my name unlike any other. “nyerangi minga Angmo in-le,” Ama-le said, or, “your name is Angmo.” It took me a few seconds to figure out that I’m Angmo, as it does each time anyone says “Angmo-le”.

I climbed up the hill behind the house for a birds-eye view of upper Likir. How do I describe such an incredible place without the usage of a cliché? It is everything I ever dreamt about, read about, heard about. I almost cannot believe what I see—stunning snow-capped peaks everywhere I look above, and green everywhere below.

Read more: Photographs from Likir / Life in Likir / On Likir: musings